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Assembly Video For Cheap Sheds F83 2.8 by 1.07m


Cheap Sheds F83 2.8 by 1.07m Transcription:

In this video, we will be assembling one of our most popular garden sheds- the Cheap Sheds F83, 2.8m x 1.07m.


Part 1- Introduction

Please ensure you wear safety glasses and gloves at all times during assembly. 

Your box will look like this one here. Take care when opening it. 

Take out your hardware kit, and if it starts to rain, like it did when we recorded this, we suggest you stop and have a cup of tea :) 

Your hardware kit includes your instructions, so cut that free from the plastic package. With your instructions combined with this video, you’ll have everything you need for a smooth assembly. 

Put your channels and hardware kit aside after you take it out of the packaging. 

Working on a saw horse workbench or similar platform will make your job a lot easier and will save you from potential back and leg pain the following day. 

Refer to the ‘parts list’ section of your instructions manual and start taking out your panels. 

Sorting your panels out at this stage will make the process easier and faster. 

You’ll have 4 different panels with this particular shed. They are clearly labelled as

C - Your wall panels
D - wall corner panels,
E - your roof panels, which will be shorter than the others, and
F - panels for your doors


Part 2- Channels & Rear Panel

Once you have all the components out of the box, you may start the process by identifying 8 pieces of component M, which will form your top and bottom channels for the front and back wall. These channels are 2.791 m long, so they are sliced into two pieces for easy transportation. 

You can easily match up a 1.461 m piece with a 1.460 m piece. Together with a 130 mm overlap they will form your channels. 

Join these pieces together making sure the cut out ends are facing the same way at both ends. Use the supplied self-tapping screws to secure the pieces together.  

You’ll end up with 4 of these, just put them aside for now.

Now we’re ready to build the rear panel.  

Start with a D wall corner panel and 7 of the C wall panels … and place them on your workbench with the colour side facing up. 

When joining the panels, remember that the large rib goes over the small rib.

Once you have the 8 panels all lined up, you can secure them together with the supplied self-tapping screws. 

Don’t make them too tight, just gently as you can see here. 

Then prepare to add the channels on by placing a self-tapping screw at each rib, so you’ll have them handy when you need them. 

Then place the channel on, make sure the ‘cut out’ section is facing down. 

You can start with temporarily securing one corner. You don’t have to drive this corner screw in all the way as this is only to hold the structure for now, you’ll undo this later when you’re putting the walls together. 

Your assembly instructions may suggest not to add the corner screws, as later you’ll have to undo them, however we do add them as we find it is easier to move the panels around this way. 

Then secure the channel to the second rib before you can go to the other end. Remember you don’t have to drive this screw in all the way, just enough to hold it together. 

Then drive in the screws at all the ribs, along the channel. 

Repeat the process on the other side of your rear wall. 

This completes your rear wall, you may need another person’s help to shift this and put this aside for now. 


Part 3 - Front Wall

You’re ready to start on your front wall... 

You’ll need 2 D panels for the edges and 2 C panels inside the D’s. 

Remember the large ribs go over the small ones and drive in the screws to secure the D and C panels together on each side. 

Then component Q, your doorjambs will go along panels C on both sides.

Then you secure the bottom and top channels on, starting from the inside and progressing outward towards the corners. 

Then the same process on the other side of the front panel… 

Then the exact same process on the top channel 

Next you’ll need component R and S, your bottom and top door spacers… 

Drive the screws in along channel R. and then in on S -the top spacer… 

The S top spacer can go inside the M channels… or outside. Both ways are going to work, however if you put it on the outside, it will cover the joint of the M channels, which some of our customers like. But it’s Totally up to you.   

If you do decide to put them on the outside, use a permanent marker to mark the holes along the top M channel, so you’ll see where the roof screws go, as they will be covered by your S channel. 

We’ll put the S channel on the top here for you so you can see how that’s done. 

So we place the S channel on the top and drive in the screws along the way. 

Once you’ve done that, turn your front panel around and drive in the screws on the top and bottom of the other side and that completes your front panel. 


Part 4 - Side Walls

Now you’re ready to move onto your sidewall panels.   

As always, refer to your assembly manual. 

Line up a D panel on the left hand side and two C panels beside it on the right and prepare one N channel for the top and bottom. 

Then join the panels together in the middle, and then secure the N channels to the top and bottom of your side panels. 

Repeat the same process on your other side panel and once you’re done, put them aside. 

At this point we have all the wall panels ready, so we can join them together. 

Make sure you build your shed on a level surface; we are using a YardSaver Flooring kit that we can also supply you as an optional extra. 

We place the back wall on our foundation first and slightly bend the end rib inwards as we find that it makes it even easier to join the panels together. 

Place the side panel beside the rear wall and undo the corner screws if you added them before. Drive in a screw midway along the corner.  

Then secure the bottom and the top together.

Repeat the process on the other side and then you’ll have the rear and the two-sidewall panels attached. 

Then you join the front panel to the side panels the same way. 

Undo the corner screws at this point.  

Secure the panels together half way along the corner.

Then join the bottom and top as well. 

Repeat the process at the other end and then you’ll have the 4 walls joined together. 


Part 5 - Door Panels

Next, it is time to assembling our door panels. 

As you’d be already used to, have a look at the supplied assembly instructions before you begin. 

You’ll need 2 F panels for each door. These panels are perforated and the end bits need to be snipped off. This is a very easy process, just put the two panels on the top of each other and break the end off. 

Then place the F Door Panels next to each other and drive in a screw in the middle using a clip nut from your hardware pack. 

Then use your H channels for the top and bottom of your door to secure the panels together. 

Only one screw in the middle at this point of time. 

Then secure your ‘I’ channels along side the doors. 

Then the ‘J’ door boxing, to complete the doorframe. 

On your second door, the door seal, which is marked with and ‘L’ will go in between channel ‘I’ that you already secured and the ‘J’ door boxing. 

Then turn your doors around and drive in the screws on the back of the door as well. 

Once you secured all 6 screws required along each side, then you’ll add the door bracings that are marked with ‘K’. 

Easiest way to secure the braces, is to drill from the back first, so you’ll see where the screws need to go from the front. 

Once you finished with the braces, next you’ll add the hinges. 

Simply secure them to the pre-punched holes. 

Next we’ll add the doorplate. Make sure it is square and use a clip nut for the screw that goes through the sheet. 


Part 6 - Roof Panels

After our doors are complete we go back to our walls and start adding the roof panels, which are marked with E.  

Once again, it is very important for any building to be level and your brand new Cheap Shed is no exception. 

Double check at this point to ensure your frame is level so all your holes line up nicely as you simply attach the roof panels. 

Make sure you use the supplied plastic washers for your roof panels as they will ensure your shed is 100% waterproof. 

Add your sheets one after another...until you get to the last one. 

Next step is to undo the screws on the side channel as you can see here and add a roof angle trim marked with a ‘W’ to each side. 

Then leaving the corner screw out secure gutter trim V1 to the front of the roof sheeting. 

Then gutter trim V2 to complete the front gutter trim. Then repeat the same process at the back. 

Then place the corner cap on a corner and screw it all together at all 4 corners.

After this, you can move onto hanging the doors. 

Then add your hasps on the top and bottom and the keepers. 

Once that’s done, you can mark out the location for your front hasp and predrill the holes. 

Then the same process for the keeper. 

Next, use the provided anchors to anchor the shed to the ground. 

Secure the corner brackets to the shed and then use a screw if you are using a plywood base like we did. 

If you are putting your shed up on a concrete slab, use the supplied masonry anchors.

Then add the 4 brackets as well, your assembly instructions will show you exactly where. 

As a final step, peel the labels of the panels and channels and this completes your Cheap Sheds F83 model which 2.8m x 1.07m   

Well done, your shed is up and ready to be fitted with accessories and whatever you’ll be storing in there and to serve you for decades to come. 

Thank you for watching this video and feel free to contact us with any questions.


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